Thanks, it's Anna Jean Kos.

Summer is just around the corner, You know what to do.

MAZ IN THE AJK HOKU PRINT. SHOT ON FILM BY KIANA KANOA.

So I was scrolling through TikTok the other night (and yes, I’m obsessed)— rolled in a blanket like a burrito and it dawned on me after a few videos…. “Is everyone getting ready to have a hot girl summer…?” Meanwhile, I had just scarfed down nearly half a tub of salted caramel ice cream and I realized something… I need a new bikini. Like many of you, my plans pre-covid didn’t exactly pan out the way I had hoped… aka my entire life did a 180° and my body was definitely adjusting to that. It took a few months for me to become accepting of change— changes in my life and changes with my body. Now, the concept of body positivity comes in many forms and no I’m not going to try to preach about all the ways you can love your body…but I am going to tell you about a little number that made me look at my body and say…. “Damn, I might just be ready for a hot girl summer. Pass the fucking tequila.”

We discovered the visionary behind Anna Jean Kos while scrolling through instagram. One of our favorite Oahu creatives, Meghan McClenny had just shared a few film pics she had taken of Anna in some pieces she made herself. It’s safe to say, we were obsessed. Her garments were not only absolutely beautiful, but they were ethically sourced and handmade (you know we drool over that shit). As time went on, we continued to follow Anna’s journey and watch her brand grow into something magical.

Sparks flew as soon as we connected, and the more we learned about the meaning behind her brand and each of her pieces, the more we fell in love— not only did Anna create pieces that looked like they were literally made by fairies…but she also prioritized inclusivity of all sorts. From making sure that each size was comfortable to including all sorts of body types and ethnicities in her campaigns, she is a prime example of doing it the right way. HOKU was lucky enough to be able to speak with Anna about the goals of AJK and shoot her latest print drop, the HOKU.

What’s your story?
I grew up in New Zealand, in a coastal suburb at the bottom of the North Island called Eastbourne. At home, I’m surrounded by the beach and native bush. I grew up being pretty reserved with my creative side. I felt a lot of pressure to perform academically throughout high school; getting good grades, going to university to get a degree etc. Sewing and designing was something I kept to myself. I started Anna Jean Kos after moving to Hawai’i as a way to share my designs and connect with people through my creations. On Oahu, I met people who pushed me to do what I love and I think I’ve been really lucky find that inspiration and support. These days, AJK is my label and livelihood. I’m so proud of how far it’s come, but more importantly, where it’s headed.

Tell us more about the materials you use and how you’ve made it a priority to use materials that are environmentally friendly / sustainable?
When I’m designing anything, the fabric is one of the first things I think about. I want to create pieces that fall and fit beautifully, while generating as little waste and harm to the environment as possible. The first way I do this is through small batch production and made-to-order pieces. While the process is a little slower, I’m keeping waste to minimum by only producing what I need.

The current swim wear collection is made from dead stock fabrics. Dead stock is fabric leftover from previous collections and off-cuts that would otherwise be sent to landfills or be incinerated. This way I’m not adding to the amount of material being wasted each year. Transparency is incredibly important to me and I see the term ‘dead stock’ thrown around to green wash quite often. It’s important that my customers know the current swim collection is fabric purchased locally, but was originally made in Italy. It is all EU REACH certified with OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification, meaning they were made in ethical, safe working conditions and were tested for harmful chemicals, protecting both those who make the fabrics and those who wear them.

The recent clothing collection is all made from linen. I chose linen for a few reasons; the impact on the environment is lower than cotton as it’s grown using less water and pesticides, it comes from a flax plant, so it’ll break down in the future (as opposed to synthetics and the micro plastics associated). It’s also just a lot more durable and healthier to wear. It softens over time and can be worn over and over again.

Being a sustainable small brand is a challenge. I’m always doing my best to be transparent about where I’m doing great and where I’d like to do better. I want to encourage people to think about what they’re buying and who they’re buying it from. I’d love to explore even more sustainable alternatives, such as hemp, bamboo and ECONYL. I try to buy most of my fabrics from local fabric stores, hoping that to avoid importing from overseas to reduce emissions and support the local economy.

What inspires your collections?
I’m inspired by seeing the things I love and figuring out how I can create these in a way that my friends can wear and move in. I love vintage clothing, 80s swimwear, oversized mens shirts, and I have a weird obsession with the sky. Originally, I wanted everything I made to be sky related. Think cloud patterns, dusky colors, pillowy sleeves and floaty fabrics. Something to develop in the future maybe? The swimwear collection was, quite honestly, inspired by my need for a new bikini. I was in New Zealand’s managed isolation at the time, and didn’t know any brands that could guarantee me something that fit securely and offer cheekiness without being skimpy at the front, so I decided to make it.

Do you plan to use your brand to advocate for issues you feel strongly about i.e. BLM, Climate Change, Inclusivity ect.
Positive social change is something I feel strongly about as an individual and as a brand. I see social media being used to spread awareness every day and while I think that’s great and incredibly important, sometimes I think it provides an easy way out, for brands especially. Posting a story that says publicly “I care about this” needs to be followed up by action. Actions such as donating to the cause, educating yourself and others (most importantly if you are in a position of privilege), and supporting small businesses and creators whose profits are going back to their communities.

AJK is an extension of my values and beliefs. Some of the smaller actions I am able to take as a brand include donating where I can, providing free customisations for shape and size inclusivity and prioritizing ethical and sustainable materials. While there are times I’m still left feeling powerless against ingrained social structures and corporations, I’m motivated by the fact that businesses are in a position to create opportunity and drive positive social change. I want to continue growing AJK in a way expresses this by finding the areas where I can have the most impact, as a brand and as an individual, and starting there.

What are your goals for your brand?
Where do I even start, my brand is still an infant. I’m not sure if anyone’s noticed, but I don’t even have a real logo yet. I’d like to release another sustainable swimwear collection, hopefully including original prints, as well as high cut full-pieces and rash guards. I’m in the process of designing some menswear, because the guys are all jealous of my friends in the comfy pants.

So far, the growth of AJK has come naturally and I’d like it to continue that way instead of applying too much pressure. I feel like I have such a long way to go. I’m nowhere near where I’d like to be but I love what I’m doing. As long as I get to spend this year designing, sewing and collaborating then I’m feeling incredibly grateful and satisfied.

How do you think the fashion industry could become more sustainable and inclusive?
Sustainability and inclusivity in the fashion industry are systemic issues and closely linked. Those affected by the environmental pollution created by the fashion industry are disproportionately people of color, they’re also the ones being underpaid and exploited in the supply chain. I see so many brands doing inspiring things with fashion by uplifting communities and meeting the standards for what it means to be an ethical business. But I see exploitation, mass production, greenwashing and inauthenticity on a much larger scale.

In order to become more sustainable, the fashion industry needs to become more transparent and we need global changes in policy. I’ve also been researching the adoption of a ‘closed loop’ system, where items are designed to circulate for as long as possible, able to breakdown or be recycled at the end of their ‘life’. Recently, I discovered a brand called For Days who ‘buys’ back their products (in any condition!), recycling them into new fibres and products, essentially creating a zero waste system, which is really cool. Repairing, repurposing and recycling are what the fashion industry needs to be doing more of.

Sustainable fashion alternatives also need to become more accessible and inclusive, to compete with larger fast fashion corporations. It’s unfair and ignorant to expect everyone to choose an environmentally friendly option, which tends to be more expensive. Like anything, creating a more sustainable and inclusive fashion industry is possible. The resources exist, and there are so many great things being done. However, huge structural and corporate shifts need to be made in order to get to a place where sustainable fashion is inclusive, accessible to all and the new ‘norm’.

Favorite song to listen to while creating?
This depends on my mood entirely. I’ll listen to Chuck Berry, Tchaikovsky, Vince Staples and Taylor Swift (new and old) all in the same day. If you’re after some really good tunes, go listen to KOKOROKO. Their music makes me feel relaxed and good no matter what kind of day I’m having.

Other than your own, which sustainable fashion brands do you like?
My favourite way to shop is second hand. I know that’s not a brand, but I think it’s the most sustainable alternative out there right now. Other than that, I recently discovered Nisa, a New Zealand underwear & swimwear label who employ women from refugee and migrant backgrounds. They’re eco-friendly and use their Wellington space for employees to make friends, practice English and go on to build their own careers and inspire their communities. Seeing a brand acting as a social enterprise and having a real positive impact made me feel so motivated to grow in a way that can hopefully create opportunities for others as well. I also love Hara the Label (comfy basics, soft bamboo fabrics, right up my alley) and Afends (hemp! If I’m not buying a second hand tee, I’ll buy it from here. Soft, boy-ish fit and they have a transparent supply chain).

Shop the HOKU print, here and stay in the know with Anna Jean Kos’ latest drops by following their IG.

Model: @mazlovella

Campaign shot on film by: @kianakanoa